In the land of the rising sun, where modernity and tradition coexist in perfect harmony, finding a true hidden gem can seem like an impossible task. The cities of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka have long been the staples for international tourists, drawing millions with their historic temples, bustling streets, and vibrant cultures. However, for the adventurous traveler, the true magic lies just a few hours north of the capital, in a city where culinary delights meet the breathtaking backdrop of a snow-capped, active volcano. Welcome to Morioka, a city that offers more than just its famous noodle-eating challenge and popular summer festival. Here, inside its train station, awaits one of Japan’s most curious and captivating treasures.

The Spectacle of the "Shinkansen Kiss"

Morioka is a city that knows how to make an entrance. Every day, 17 times a day, a spectacle unfolds at its train station that draws rail enthusiasts from across the globe. It begins with the arrival of the teal green Tohoku Shinkansen "Hayabusa," one of Japan’s world-famous bullet trains. The train pulls into the platform, passengers alight, and the train waits patiently for its partner. Then, the bright red Akita Shinkansen "Komachi" slowly approaches along the same track. Finally, to the excitement of onlookers, the fronts of the trains open up, and they connect, nose-to-nose. This technical marvel, known as "coupling," is affectionately referred to by locals and enthusiasts as the "Shinkansen kiss."

For Japanese rail fans, this event is more than just a train connection; it’s a celebration of precision, technology, and the quintessential Japanese experience of trainspotting. Carissa Loh, a rail enthusiast from Singapore, has joined the crowds to watch the kiss more than five times. "It is the iconic image of the two Shinkansen being connected at the noses," she says. For anyone who knows about Japanese trains, the scene at Morioka station is "very, very recognizable."

The Allure of Japanese Trains

The Japanese are justifiably proud of their sleek, spaceship-like Shinkansen, known worldwide as "bullet trains." These trains are not just modes of transportation; they are symbols of Japan’s technological prowess, renowned for their speed, reliability, and beautiful design. In Japan, rail fans are divided into two main categories: nori-tetsu—“people who like to ride trains”—and tori-tetsu—“people who like to take photos of trains.” Every month, timetables for all the trains are published in "a very thick book," and hobbyists "will look at it to see where they should go to take a specific photo or to ride a specific train."

Japanese children, in particular, have a deep love for trains. "A lot of little boys, when you ask them what they want to be when they grow up, they will say they want to be a Shinkansen driver," says Loh. "And they can recognize the different trains by the colors and the models." It’s no wonder that Morioka station is often filled with parents bringing their children to witness the "Shinkansen kiss," a moment that captures the imagination and wonder of young and old alike.

The Shinkansen Network

The Shinkansen network is a marvel of modern engineering, connecting the Tokyo metropolitan area to various regions of the country and serving approximately 14 million passengers every day, according to the East Japan Rail Company. At Morioka, the two trains connect and then travel together towards the capital, allowing passengers to go between Akita and Tokyo without needing to transfer. The teal green Hayabusa, the fastest train in the network, pulls along the red Komachi, creating a seamless and efficient journey.

Morioka is one of three stations in Japan where you can witness the kissing of two Shinkansen trains, along with Sendai and Fukushima. However, it is the only place where you can witness the colorful kiss between the Tohoku and the Akita. The experience is not just limited to the coupling; you can also see the "uncoupling" of the trains as they separate and head in different directions—a poignant contrast to their joyful union.

"It is a moving experience to watch the mechanical and smooth kissing of the large Shinkansen car body under the exquisite control of the driver," a representative of the East Japan Railway Company explains. This unique spectacle adds to the already seductive charm of Morioka, a city of fewer than 300,000 people, often seen as an unlikely stop in a tour of Japan.

Morioka: A Hidden Gem

Morioka is a city that defies expectations. With its old buildings, numerous boutiques, and renowned noodle dishes, it offers a quieter, more intimate experience compared to the bustling metropolises of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. "It’s not really a place that first-time visitors to Japan would visit," says Loh. But that perception might be changing. In 2023, Morioka was placed second on the New York Times’ list of "52 Places to Go," only behind London. The Times described the city as "a walkable gem without the crowds, just a short bullet train ride from Tokyo."

Morioka’s appeal lies in its blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. The city is nestled against the backdrop of Mount Iwate, an active volcano whose snow-capped peaks offer a stunning contrast to the city’s historic streets. The local cuisine, particularly its noodle dishes, is a gastronomic delight that attracts food lovers from far and wide. And with the added allure of the "Shinkansen kiss," Morioka has the potential to rival the more popular destinations in the south.

A City on the Rise

Despite its relatively small size, Morioka is a city on the rise. Its unique attractions, combined with its strategic location and efficient transportation links, make it an ideal destination for travelers seeking a more authentic Japanese experience. The East Japan Rail Company notes that while most tourists head towards Kyoto and Osaka, "there are many interesting locations north of Tokyo to explore."

Morioka’s charm lies in its ability to offer the best of both worlds: the excitement of modern Japan and the tranquility of its natural landscapes. Whether you’re a rail enthusiast eager to witness the "Shinkansen kiss," a food lover craving the city’s famous noodles, or a nature lover seeking the serene beauty of Mount Iwate, Morioka has something to offer everyone.

A Journey Worth Taking

In a world where travel often feels like a race to the most popular destinations, Morioka stands out as a reminder that sometimes, the best experiences are found off the beaten path. This hidden gem, with its unique attractions and welcoming atmosphere, offers a glimpse into the heart of Japan—a place where tradition and modernity coexist in perfect harmony.

For those willing to venture beyond the familiar, Morioka promises a journey filled with wonder, discovery, and unforgettable moments. From the thrill of watching the "Shinkansen kiss" to the serene beauty of its natural surroundings, Morioka is a city that will capture your heart and leave you longing for more. So, the next time you plan a trip to Japan, consider stepping off the beaten path and discovering the hidden gem that is Morioka.